I have been in Korea for 3 months, and that’s been more than enough time to discover that Koreans love hiking.  It is impossible to miss the hordes of middle aged men, decked out in the latest hiking gear from head to foot, backpack and ski pole walking stick in tow, returning from a day of hiking on the metro.  But I’m from the glorious, mountain-rich Pacific Northwest and I get a bit snobby when it comes to hiking, skiing, and mountains.  I spent the last 4 years going to college in the Northeast United States making fun of their mountains.  While the Northeast has a few nice mountains that provide some decent skiing, I think they are better classified as hills when compared to the Western United States’.  So after moving to Korea, it didn’t take me long to start turning my nose up at the Korean mountains.  But I looked out my window; indeed it was a beautiful day.  I decided to put my prejudice aside and join them: a little fresh air goes a long way in vanquishing a hangover.  Worst case scenario, I vomit on the trail.

The trailhead to Mt. Pyeongnae was literally five minutes from my doorstep.  This is, in and of itself, representative of how accessible hiking in Korea is.  Turns out all of the hikers we’ve seen on and around the mountains are actually going directly to mountains.  It’s one of many staggering contrasts between Korea and the Pacific Northwest.  In the Northwest, I have to take a 3 hour car trip from Seattle to get to the good mountains (and make sure the four-wheel drive is working to handle the poorly maintained gravel roads near the trailhead).  There are a few trails much closer to Seattle, but the point still stands: taking the metro to the mountains is amazingly convenient and unique.

As the trail wound its way up the mountain it switched between mud and ice as it moved in and out of the sun.  I didn’t expect an actual steep hiking trail — I guess my Northwest mountain hubris got the better of me.  But I managed to make it to the peak without falling into the mud even though at one point we chose the steeper path when the trail forked.  While pulling ourselves up the last part with a rope tied to a tree, a Korean couple walked past us using walking sticks and wearing crampons.  They fired off a few rapid-fire Korean sentences, which were incomprehensible, but I assumed by their pointing that they were advising us to use the other path on the way down.  Looking down at my worn sneakers, I wholeheartedly agreed.

Rope-assent successfully completed, we continued up the ice and mud path to the summit.  As we walked we constantly passed small groups of Korean hikers.  Every last one of them was decked out, from head to foot, in hundreds of dollars worth of hiking equipment.  In my experience, a hiking outfit means basketball shorts, an old t-shirt, and a baseball cap.  But apparently in Korea looking the part is just as important as the hiking itself.  As countless Koreans walked passed us in their hiking uniforms I couldn’t help but think how silly we must have looked in our outfits.  Daniel was wearing a hoodie and shin length cotton shorts (but at least he had real hiking boots).  I looked the worst, wearing jeans, a hoodie, and old tennis shoes.  And Phil was wearing what would be considered a hiking outfit in the States: pants / zip off shorts and an athletic t-shirt.  But it was Phil’s footwear that really caught the Korean’s eyes.  The Koreans, clearly into the latest hiking gear, could not get enough of Phil’s toe hiking shoes.  Multiple groups of Koreans stopped and ooed and ahhed as Phil wiggled his toes in the air.

After about two or three kilometers, we reached the summit of Mt. Pyeongnae.  A two-story gazebo stood at the top of the mountain, rewarding victorious hikers a 360 degree view of the beautiful Korean countryside.  The view included several nearby “peaks,” Pyeongnae-dong, my humble home, and the neighboring administrative districts of Namyangju.  Standing on a man-made structure gazing out over towns that were built within the last decade isn’t exactly what I’m used to when I go hiking.  While it was nice to walk through the trees and briefly escape the city, I never really felt like I was fully out in nature; I could always see something manmade.  I got the feeling that the Koreans don’t really mind this: I saw one Korean man charging up the mountain, headphones in, phone out, watching TV.  A baffling sight for a nature enthusiast, but as my high school  French teacher used to tell us: Ce n’est pas bizarre, c’est different.

In addition to seeing civilization, civilization was brought to us in another form: vendors.  Phil told me as we neared the summit: “If there isn’t a shop on the trail then you’re probably not on a trail.”  And lo and behold there was a vendor at the base of the gazebo structure offering us a cold bowl of makgeolli for 1000 won.  Ce n’est pas bizarre, c’est different.  Without a moment’s pause we jumped on the offer.  Who cares if we had been drinking the entire night before? It’s a cultural experience!  So we each grabbed a bowl and headed up to the second floor of the wooden gazebo.  But we were not left in peace to enjoy the view.  It turns out three young white guys at the top of a relatively obscure mountain in Korea pass as rock stars.  Before we even sat down, a group Korean men (who turned out to be ex Korean Black Berets) were taking pictures of us.  One of them crossed over and posed for a picture with us.  When we were finished with our first bowl of makgeolli they brought us refills and gave us Korean hiking snacks (that complimented makgeolli very well).  It didn’t take long for them to get comfortable and treat us like one of the guys.  After a few minutes of talking (and a few bowls of makgeolli) we were the objects of jokes involving nipple pinching.  Next, one guy started gyrating his hips and using the makgeolli bottle as a prop (I’ll let you use your imagination for where he held it).  We had transformed the top of the mountain into our personal bar!  But when a woman walked up and sat on the bench beside us the men immediately shaped up.  Pretty soon the woman started asking us questions too, although she didn’t follow them with sexual jokes.  Instead she offered us some coffee — I think she was worried about us making it back down the mountain.  After about an hour of basking in pseudo-fame, we took one more look around and headed back down the trail for Pyeongnae.

Heading into the day with an open mind and no expectations, I was more than happy with Korean hiking.  Nothing was what I expected.  The trails were steeper; the summit was more built up than any peak I have summited; makgeolli was sold at the top; and although different from the majestic mountains of the North Cascades, the views were breathtaking in their own right. It was one of the most unique days of hiking I have ever had and I look forward to seeing what other hikes Korea has to offer.  The season is just starting, after all.

Nick Hamilton

• How to get there: Pyeongnae Mountain is one of a couple of trails in Pyeongnae-Dong.  The best way to get there is by the new Gyeongchun line to Pyeongnae-Hopyeong Station.

• Cost: The subway ticket should be less than 2,000 won.  You might want to wear some proper hiking gear though.

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…

The performance is mostly non-verbal although there are a few English and Korean words spoken. But that doesn’t mean it’s boring! The show also has acrobatics, comedy, pantomime, and audience participation. Audience members are chosen to go up on stage for a “taste test” and then later a surprise is in store for them (I don’t want to spoil it!). There is more audience participation later in the show in the form of a cooking competition. Another element that makes the show so enjoyable is that there is an actual plot. NANTA tells the story of three cooks who must prepare for a wedding banquet while teaching the boss’s incompetent nephew the tricks of the trade.

Although the price is a bit steep, I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed NANTA. It definitely exceeded my expectations. It is a performance that can easily entertain all ages and nationalities.

Jennifer Pace
–Bundang, South Korea

• How to Get There: There are four different theatres that show NANTA: Myeong Dong, Gangbuk Jeongdong, Gangnam, and Jeju. Each link provides directions.
• Cost: 40,000-60,000 won, but discounts and promotions are typically available.
• Contact Info: Check out the English website here.

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…

The museum is divided into two parts: Past and Present. Note: If you  purchase the observatory and Teddy Bear Museum package you must go to the Past museum first, then the Present, and the observatory last.

The Past section tells the story of Korea’s history through scenes set up with moving teddy bears. There are displays depicting the building  of Gyeongbok Palace, the dredging of the Cheonggyecheon stream, memorial services at the royal shrine of Jongmyo, and many other historical events. There are also explanations of the displays in both Korean and English, which is very helpful!

The Present section has scenes that show different areas and  attractions in Seoul that are popular today, such as Myeongdong, Children’s Grand Park, NANTA, etc. There are also giant teddy bears to pose with and even a “Photo Zone” with interactive TV screens where you are inserted in a teddy bear scene. And don’t forget to buy a teddy bear at the gift shop to take home – they even have organic ones!

Jennifer Pace
–Bundang, South Korea

• How to Get There: There are many options that include walking, taking a bus, or taking a cable car. Check out this link for more info.
• Cost: 8,000 won for just the museum or 12,000 won for the museum and observatory package.
• Contact Info: Check out the English website here

It’s almost spring, and more importantly, it’s almost the end of the winter doldrums.  After a long period of hibernation, it’s nearly time for us public school teachers to teach again!  Also just as exciting, it’s time for us hikers to hit the mountains around the Seoul and Gyeonggi-Do.

Hiking seems to be a forgotten past-time for Korea’s 20+ generation.  Yiseul’s peers picked on her for wanting to do something as “dorky” and as “old-fashioned” as hiking.  It’s a shame, not only because I love young people in Korea, but because when I was at Bukhansan National Park this Saturday, it suddenly occurred to me that this national past-time is probably one of the reasons why the life expectancy is a bit longer on this end of the globe.  As ajummas and ajoshis passed us by decked out in full, bright mountain-man garb and hiking poles, There were few young people on the trail, nor were there many (or any) foreigners, but then, it’s not really peak season yet, is it?

The hint of spring is in the air.  The air is cool and crisp, the snow is beginning to give way even in the highest, coldest parts of the mountain, and birds can be heard chirping in the distance.  As we passed by the Seokguram Hermitage, which we couldn’t see from our trail, the peaceful sounds of monks chanting filled the air, complementing the birds.  We stopped and sat, and enjoyed the peace and beauty of an emerging spring.

I have told my family back home that in Korea, if you don’t encounter a shop on the trail, you’re probably not actually on a trail at all.  Even the summits of mountains in Namyangju have maekgoelli stands at the top!  However, Bukhansan National Park forbids commerce on the trail once in the heart of the park.  It’s this contrast with Seoraksan that makes Bukhansan feel even more remote at times, in spite of it being within the vicinity of Seoul.  Hiking purists might applaud this, but Yiseul and I had a problem: we had nothing to eat but a bottle of maekgoelli for the top.  It’s amazing how quickly I’ve grown to take for granted the things that initially weirded me out about Korea.

Our goal was to hike up to Jaunbong Peak, which I affectionately renamed “Jjambbong Peak,” after the Chinese hot-pot dish, probably because we were hungry.  Eventually, Yiseul’s hunger got the best of her.  We came up with a plan.  I’d run up to the top of the peak to scout the terrain, and I’m come down to report to her on the difficulty and the view.  After agreeing on the plan, I took a couple of big steps and started running up the trail.

Korea is infamous for its jagged mountains and its rock scrambles near the top of the mountains, and near the top of Jaunbong Peak was no different.  At points, it got so steep that rails were placed into the mountain to assist with the ascent.  In certain, shadier parts of the mountain, small splotches of ice remained.  And yet, the ascent was crowded but not dangerous.  It was lively at the top, with around 30 to 40 older Koreans within plain sight, the duality that is Korea standing before me.  The skyline of Seoul sprawled out for many kilometers, like the legos of a six year old neatly arranged across his bedroom floor, competing for dominance with the mountain ranges but finding themselves instead swallowed up by them.

My appreciation for nature stems from acceptance that man will never be able to build anything on as grand a scale than our environment, which for some reason takes the pressure off of life.  There is also something symbolic in climbing a mountain, something reinvigorating.  Just like the most joyous aspects of life, it is not crucial to our survival to scale any mountain, and yet reaching the top is a wonderful feeling.

And yet, sometimes just reaching the tree line is also an accomplishment.  As beautiful as the clear blue sky was, I knew that it wouldn’t be safe for Yiseul to hike up to the top on a completely empty stomach.  I hiked back down to the camp where three trails merge towards Jaunbong Peak and found her with a friend she had made.  She spoke to him in Korean, thanking him graciously for his help before turning to me and explaining what had happened.

“I had to pee, but I couldn’t find a place.  This man offered me a mandarin, and I told him I wouldn’t eat it because I had to pee.  So he helped me find a quiet spot to pee.”  A kind man indeed, because you’re more likely to find a makgoelli stop than a secluded place to pee on the trails of Korea.

After thanking the man, we trekked down towards the bottom.  We stopped occasionally for breaks, and Yiseul used her wide eyes and fluency in Korean to acquire food from sympathetic passer-bys.  About two hours later, we were sitting down at a restaurant, eating tofu and drinking from a large bowl of dongdongju.

I was initially shocked about the differences between hiking in Korea and hiking in the west.  An avid hiker back home, I enjoyed the quiet, spread out solitude of nature when I hiked famous trails in New Zealand, the Adirondacks, and the Canadian Rockies.  At six months into my contract, having adjusted to the Korean pace of life, I can say without hesitation that I enjoy the trail camaraderie, the makgeolli stops, the chants of Buddhist monks, the very duality that Korea represents to me: the largest city in the world’s most wired country that is still swallowed up by the majesty of mountains.

Phillip Ruane, Guri-si, Gyeonggi-Do, Korea

• How to get there: Take line 1 to Dobongsan, and follow all the ajummas with backpacks, pink and purple coats, and retractable hiking poles.  You’ll find it, trust me.

• Cost: It’s free.  It’s a hike.  Make sure you wear proper shoes and dress appropriately, and don’t forget to buy food before you go up the mountain!

• Info: Check out the English version of Korea National Park website

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…

Of all the resorts in Korea, Yong Pyong Resort in Pyeongchang is by far the most accessible for English speakers.  The reason is that it’s a fast growing global resort with an international name, thanks to years of aggressively bidding for the Winter Olympics.  (May it win in 2018.)  Everyone at the resort was able to speak to me in English, however basic and rudimentary.  Even in the town, I found a rental shop, Dr. Snow, that had an English-speaking owner.  Because of this, the same 45% lift ticket discounts that Koreans get when they rent from him apply to me, and every other English speaker who walks into the shop!

You’d be amazed at some of the people who come here.  Most obvious is the dedicated and not-so dedicated skiing expats, who have no family to visit, no special attachment or tradition for the day, and virtually nothing to do for the Lunar New Year.  But they aren’t just from here: expats come from all over.  On my first trip up the gondola I met a family from South Africa who lived in Shanghai, and were looking for a hopping place with decent ski to spend the holiday.  They were so pleased with the fact that almost every seemed to speak English in Korea (which was simultaneously curious to me, and a testament to our worth!).  Also at the resort were a surprising number of Chinese and Indians, which is a reminder that there’s fast growing middle class in both countries, where there are pocketfuls of new wealth being created, and only so many ways to spend it.  For so much of this new middle class, the best skiing in Asia, Japan, is too expensive, but Korea is still affordable.

The people who don’t come here on Lunar New Years are the Korean amateur skiers and boarders, the people that turn the wide, easy slopes of the beginner runs into the more dangerous runs on the mountain!  The Koreans that do come are the die-hard enthusiasts and experts.  And for some reason, the ones I ran into spoke perfect English.  If ever a set of days to ski in Korea, these are them.

The first friendly Korean I met on the gondola up to the Rainbow Runs, the most challenging area of the mountain, and most likely in all of Korea.  The man, Sungsan, had been a skier all his life and owned a membership complete with a locker.  We enjoyed each other on the lifts and talked about our skiing stories.  He talked about the superiority of skiing in Japan, and how incredible his trip to Whistler Blackcomb was the year prior.  But he was proud and happy to have such a nice resort within three hours from Seoul.

“Seoul is very beautiful, but it is too big, and there is air pollution.  I go here to get away from the city life, to get some fresh air, to renew my spirits.  Seoul is one of the only cities I know in the world with a resort like this only two hours away.  You can’t get that in New York, or LA, or England.”

The gondola ride was a 20 minutes long, scenic tour of the mountains of Pyeongchang, and several difficult runs could be seen in the distance.  I was so happy to see what the first genuine black diamonds I’ve seen in Korea that I popped out of the door in a rush, ready to bolt down the slopes.  The top of the resort was slightly colder, and the snow was slightly crunchier than the rest with some icy patches, but the gondola offers access to the Rainbow Runs, four difficult runs that are Korea’s must-ski runs.  Sangsun and I had different styles, with me speeding down the hill like a maniac and with him taking frequent stops to check the slopes and maintain a reasonable speed.  Good Korean skiers tend to be more technical, emphasizing quick turns and technique over speed.  I find this ironic; as every run I’ve ever skied down in Korea has been meticulously groomed, so quick turns are usually unnecessary. Needless to say, he was not impressed with my “power-skiing” and told me I should steer with my skis, not my body.  But by the time the late afternoon break came around, Sangsun and I had bonded.  We skied down Rainbow Paradise, an easy blue run that favor scenic views over steeps, Korea’s longest run at 5.2 kilometers.  And then he invited me to his condominium where we shared a meal of fruit, ramen, and gimbap with his friends, his ski instructor, his instructor’s twin brother, and his instructor’s girlfriend, who made the meal as I sat and listened to the gentlemen speak in Korean.  I’m not sure how I get myself surrounded by native Koreans so frequently, but I think it has something to do with living in Korea.

Evening came, and it was time to mess up some freshly groomed snow.  The Gold side of the mountain is the other challenging portion, and unlike the Rainbow runs, Gold is open during the evening.  It proved to be the run that all the most advanced skiers flocked to.  Because of all the skiers who knew what they were doing, moguls were beginning to form by the end of the night, though I knew they’d be groomed away by the time morning came.  The Gold runs are slightly longer than Rainbow, but also less steep.  My only complaint is that the lift takes a solid ten minutes from top to bottom, which on a freezing night after a full day of skiing, might as well be forever.

Après Ski

Unfortunately, Sangsun had a family and couldn’t make it back on Thursday, the Lunar New Year, as he had to eat the meal his wife would cook for him.  So for the next day I skied mainly by myself, hitting the Gold, Red, and Rainbow tracks as hard as possible, trying to gain more and more speed.  By 9:30 PM, I had felt sufficiently satisfied with my time and Yong Pyong and decided that it was time for après ski.

For the vast majority of my ski trips in Korea, après ski has consisted of a lot of beer and liquor in a room at a pension, but this time I was by myself, and stayed in the hostel.  Fortunately, the resort had an excellent après ski scene.  Yong Pyong Tower served as the center of the scene, with a Family Mart selling ramen, dollar cheeseburgers and gimbap, and hundreds of bottles of booze for the Ramen-eating types, a karaoke bar on the second floor, a spa, a PC bang so you can play video games and check your email, and the Dragon Plaza, which features a nifty blacklight bowling alley, a pool hall, a bar, and an arcade station (with Pump it Up 2!).  The atmosphere is impeccable and it was easily the most fun I’ve had on a Korean after-ski romp.  I made friends with some fellow foreigners and we had a couple beers, chilled out, and enjoyed nightlife under the blacklight.  Just don’t “mix and match” activities: The staff at the bowling alley didn’t like it when a couple of my new friends brought beer from Family Mart to drink in the arcade, as they have their own bar downstairs.

True to stereotype, the hostel was also alive with après ski activity, most of it unwelcome, all the way till 3:15 in the morning.  It’s a nice hostel, but if you’re going to stay there, I’d recommend purchasing earplugs, especially if you’re a guy (all the guys are in one room, and each night I was treated to a rhapsody of farts and snores.)

Most of the Koreans I met noted that High 1 Resort, 30 kilometers away, had slightly better snow.  So Yong Pyong Resort may not have the best snow in the country, but it has highest peaks, the longest, most scenic run in the country, some genuine challenge courses, and slopes for all levels.  It’s one of the finest resorts in continental Asia, and for an international destination, it’s remarkably affordable.  It’s a resort that Koreans can be proud of, and I’m convinced it’s the best place to go for lunar New Year, even if you’re by yourself.  So make be sure to make it there before the skiing ends in March. Or better yet, make it a Lunar New Year’s Tradition.  Next year, traveler, next year.

Phillip Ruane, Guri-si, Gyeonggi-Do, Korea

• How to get there: Take an express bus from Gangbyeong Bus Terminal to Pyeongchang, and take the shuttle (which runs every half hour) into the resort.
• Cost: Rent through Dr. Snow and save up to 45% on the lift ticket.  Two days of skiing is about 120,000, plus lodging (22,000) and food and drink (25,000-100,000).
• Contact info: Here’s the website, in English

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…

• How To Get There: Take the Intercity bus from Dong Seoul Terminal to Jinbu Station (first bus: 6:32, last bus: 20:05; travel time: 2 hours, 15 minutes; fare: 12,500 won), then walk for seven minutes from the right side of the station toward Jinbu-myeon. You can also join Discover Korea’s trip this weekend (http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/event.php?eid=197866360229718).

• When To Go: Until February 17, 2011

• Cost: 15,000 won for an all-day activities pass (or pay 5,000 won for each activity), 20,000 for the all-day pass and ice fishing
• Contact Info: http://www.festival700.or.kr/ (Korean only)

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…

Jennifer Pace –Bundang, Seoul, South Korea

• How to Get There: Take exit 6 out of Gangnam subway station (Line 2). When we went, there was someone dressed up in a cat costume directing the way. If the mascot isn’t around, take a left and the café is on the third floor of the building at the end of the alley.
• Cost: 8000 won includes one drink.
• Contact Info: 3481-3123

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…

“It’s not that different, Korea and the US,” I said to my friend Nick between bites of that gigantic fried chicken thigh I was devouring in between ski sessions.  He, my girlfriend Yiseul, and I were at Elysian Ski Resort right by Gangchon station.  Now Korail operates the Chyeongchun Line that connects Chuncheon from Seoul, subway style, day trips at this ski resort are easier than ever.

But Nick is a newer arrival than I, and he was not having it.  “Okay, let’s see… we arrived to the ski resort by train.  We didn’t sign a waiver for our life today.  We are sitting in a lodge where no one speaks English except the people who take our money, because there’s a mandatory dinner break between 5 and 6:30.  There are people with stuffed bear costumes walking around.  And, you had jjajjeonmyeong for lunch.”

I took a swig of terrible Korean beer and looked around.

Holy crap, he was right.

This country is totally different from the US.  Of course, of course, at the very core of every human, we all are motivated by the same basic set of desires, but this country can be downright topsy-turvy at times.  It was as if when he said that, my eyes were reopened.

So, today I’d like to submit to you four things they have in Korea that probably wouldn’t go over that well in the states.

1)     Ashley Family Restaurant’s Unlimited House Wine with dinner

There’s a restaurant throughout Seoul and inner Gyeonggi-do called “Ashley Family Restaurant,” and if you ever feel like you’ve earned a treat, try the dinner or weekend buffet.  For about the price of a Vegas Buffet back home you can eat a zillion different entrees, including ribs, wings, pizza, desserts and coffee, and unlimited house wine.  Wait, what?

In the US and Canada, unlimited alcohol of any kind is usually highly regulated (read: nonexistent), and thus Americans and Canadians would probably abuse the hell out of this.  But as far as I could tell, there was no “one glass per plate” rule at all.  I walked up to the faux oak barrel, poured myself two glasses of wine up to the brim, without plates or anything, and took them back to our table.  Sure, it didn’t taste great, but I’ve lived in Korea for a while and I’m getting used to the taste of crappy alcohol.

What’s more, on the weekends, you can pay the price of admission and stay from 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  So theoretically, you can eat your lunch, drink coffee and wine until you’re hungry again, eat dinner, and leave with everything but your shame and dignity.  This wouldn’t fly in the US either, because I’m pretty sure this is how most Westerners think.

So, now you know about it.  Who will be the foreigners to officially ruin this amazing deal for everyone?

2)     GPS with Games and Live TV.

Really, this one just seems to be common sense.  In a country with some of the most downright aggressive, frightful driving in the world, in a land where delivery boys weave through pedestrians on sidewalks, then cut into oncoming traffic to deliver a plate of noodles 30 seconds earlier, GPS equipped with Live TV and Games are in existence.  And seemingly, no one sees a problem with this.

Korea prides itself on innovation, but a Live TV GPS isn’t really that innovative.  How hard is it to get a device that operates on via satellite to pick up satellite TV?  On the other hand, even if you turn the television on for the people sitting in the back, I don’t care if you’re name is Mr. Focused-on-the-road: if everyone starts bursting out laughing hysterically or gasping in shock, you’re going to look down to see what’s going on.  And when you do… BANG.

Trial lawyers throughout the US would be collectively rejoicing, and then combing the roads in search of accidents that could have been caused by this ridiculous technology.  No company in the US would be silly enough to risk it.  Or would they?

3)     Cigarettes that cost less than a cup of coffee.

On one hand, we have cigarettes.  Hmm…  Let’s look at the plus sides.  They can keep you warm in winter, they keep you alert without making you jittery, and they give you a great opportunity to take a break from dancing in Hongdae, because no one looks stupid when they go outside and take a smoke.  The bad: it can make your breath stink and your fingernails yellow, it can give you wrinkles and sag your boobs, and can even kill you over time, which wouldn’t be that bad if they weren’t horrendously addictive.

On the other hand, we have a café latte.  A café latte has milk and espresso in it, and often sugar.  It is warm, sweet and creamy like a dessert, and the caffeine can wake you up.  In addition, drinking coffee in Korea is really hip.  There are no discernable negative side effects when consumed in moderation, though if you drink too much coffee, you may get fat from the milk and sugar or jittery from the caffeine.

On second thought, it does kind of make sense that something better costs more and something worse costs less, but that’s not how Western nations have responded to the threat of tobacco on public health.  Instead, they’ve taxed the ever-loving bejesus out of it, making smoking even stupider back home.    And when you see Koreans standing outside of public hospitals attached to IVs smoking cigarettes, you may start to wonder why the government hasn’t taken similar actions.

4)     Drunken, violent children’s mascots

“I suppose Korea is different,” I said to Nick, taking another swig of beer at the resort, looking over at the adorable Child’s mascot at Elysian Resort, who was in the process of… smacking the other bear in the head?

I have seen my kids slugging each other in the hallway: I am assured by many Koreans that this form of violence is just rough-housing, just playing. But now I know where it starts.  It starts with the children, taking a look at bear mascots.

Or maybe it begins even sooner.  After finishing our pitcher, I went to the bar and got another one for our group to split.  When I returned, the same bear, dressed in a pretty pink lacy dress, looked awfully disappointed that I didn’t bring a glass for her.  “It’s okay, he’ll drink from the pitcher,” Yiseul said.  “Have a seat.”

The pink sister bear sat down and Nick handed her a glass.  I filled her cup while nervously noticing the children attempting to get the bear’s attention.  The bear didn’t care about the kids.  All he wanted was a pint of Hite.  All he wanted was to drink beer with a bunch of English speakers in their twenties.  Yiseul got her camera out and took a picture.  The bear laughed silently but heartily, then gave me my glass back and went up on the stage to do his act, a k-pop dance medley.

Err… I don’t even have to tell you why that whole scenario wouldn’t have happened in the states, right?

Yup.  This happened.

Phillip Ruane, Guri-si, Gyeonggi-Do, Korea

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…

Zelen $$$

If you’re looking for a dining experience that is truly unique in Korea, Zelen is the perfect place. Featuring delicious Bulgarian food that will make your mouth water, Zelen is one of those restaurants that takes you out of Korea for a night and give you a true Eastern European fine-dining experience. The garden-esque interior of Zelen is enough to make you want to hang around for awhile. With richly painted green walls, ornate curtains and decorative pieces, a stone fountain in the middle of the restaurant and an open kitchen that lets you see the the cooks in action, Zelen is a truly ethnic experience. The food doesn’t disappoint — there are meat and vegetarian dishes alike that are bursting with unique flavors. They have a great choice of appetizers — stuffed tomatoes and spinach rolladas were some of our favorites. As for entrees, the kiufte meatballs, stuffed chicken, and pork wrapped with mushrooms and bacon are just a few of the long list of hearty choices. There’s also a long list of wines — we tried the Georgian red and it was delicious! If you’re there with a group, I recommend choosing a couple of the sets (which include appetizer, entree, dessert, and wine) to share with everyone so that you can try a lot of different dishes. If you go on weekends, it’s probably best to make a reservation. Prices range from 15,000won – 25,000won a dish. Zelen is definitely an exotic and memorable dining experience!

• How To Get There: To get there, take subway line 6 to Itaewon Stn. Go out Exit 1. If you’re facing the Hamilton Hotel, go down the alley on the left side of the Hamilton. Zelen is at the end of the alley, on the second floor up a flight of stairs.
• Hours: Weekdays: lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner from 6 to 10:30 p.m. Weekends: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.
• Contact Info: Zelin Website (the website is still only in Korean)  Tel: 02-749-0600

*Picture from seoulstyle.com and aliensdayout.com

Buddha’s Belly $$

Buddha’s Belly is tucked away down the alley behind the Hamilton Hotel. This restaurant serves up some of the best Thai Food in Korea. If you start with appetizers (and I hope you do!), the spring rolls and Chicken satay are fantastic. Also, the soups are full of rich flavors! Try the Tom Yum Goong (hot and sour soup with shrimp) or the Tom Kha Gai (spicy and sour coconut soup with chicken). Moving on to entrees, Buddha’s Belly has a lot of delicious curries to choose from. The Panang Curry and Massaman Curry were my favorites. And there’s always the favorite Thai dish for many people — Pad Thai! The prices at Buddha’s Belly are very reasonable — around 10,000won – 15,000won per dish. They also serve beer, wine, and mixed drinks. You really can’t go wrong at Buddha’s Belly. The food is delicious and the decor is warm and inviting. It’s a great spot for a date or if you’re meeting up with a group of friends for an evening on the town!

• How To Get There: To get there, take subway line 6 to Itaewon Stn. Go out Exit 1. If you’re facing the Hamilton Hotel, go down the alley on the right side. If you go to the end of the alley, Buddha’s Belly will be just on your left, on the second floor.
• Contact Info: Tel: 02-796-9330 E-mail: buddhasbelly@korea.com

*Picture from kissmykimchi.com and ajosshi.blogspot.com

Chili King $

If you’re looking for a more casual dinner in Itaewon that’s easy on the wallet, Chili King is the place for you. This comfortable little joint started as a street food stand in Itaewon. The owner, “Big Kev,” opened his restaurant just a few years ago and has since made reputation for himself serving up the king of chilis in Seoul. Chili King’s menu is more than just chili — it also includes tasty chili dogs, big juicy burgers, sloppy joes, chili cheese fries, and a variety of different hot dogs and sandwiches, all of which are served with with homemade coleslaw. Talk about some good ole comfort food! And it’s always fun to strike up a conversation with Big Kev to hear his story and how Chili King came to be. Chili King is cozy, casual, and a great place to get some hearty eats. And if you don’t feel like braving the cold of winter and you live in the area, Chili King also delivers during the week days!

• How To Get There: To get there, get off at Itaewon Station Line 6 Exit 1. Turn right at “Pacific Shopping” (the fourth alley.) You’l see OK2 Kitchen on your left.  Go straight around 200 meters up the hill, and you’ll find Chili King on your left.
• Hours: Open daily from 12pm – 10pm. Closed on Tuesdays.
• Contact Info: Chili King Website Tel: 02-795-1303

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…

If you’re planning to get some ice fishing in, be sure to buy a fishing reel (2,000-3,000 won) and bait worm (2,000 won), both of which are available on sale at the festival or at any fishing store in Korea. You can also rent a fishing chair at the festival (1,000-2,000won) or bring your own.

Make sure you also bring what you need to stay warm — thick Jackets, winter clothes, a knee blanket, earmuffs, gloves, spare socks, etc. A portable hand-heater, hot pack, or vacuum bottle is also not  bad idea. These are available for sale at the festival site.

As far as food goes, cooking on the ice is prohibited–you must cook in the designated “cooking zone.” But restaurants are open throughout the festival–such as Inje specailty restaurants and even an ice fish buffet!

• How To Get There: (To Inje from Seoul)

1. From Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (subway line 2, Gangbyeon Station) → Inje Bus Terminal (23 departures a day from 6:15am to 7:10pm. Takes 3 hrs)
2. From Inje bus terminal to the festival site. Take city bus headed to Sinnam.(Bus Schedule: 08:45/ 09:15/ 12:10/ 12:35/ 13:05/ 16:00/ 16:25/ 16:55) This bus will pass through the festival venue.

• When To Go: January 28~February 6, 2011

• Contact Info: Tel: 033-1330 OR 02-1330 website: http://www.injefestival.co.kr/

…brought to you by the Adventure Teaching Korea team…